20 cuttings scions organic Hardy Polar Arctic Kiwi vine fruit Actinidia arguta

$13.19 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store your.garden
(1028) 97.9%,

Location: King George, Virginia
Ships to: US,
Item: 115784383019

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Vine:Vine
Type:Vines

There is something nice and special about the people who love plants .*.*. Welcome to My Beautiful World of Gardening! . *.*. My garden is 100% organic. I do not use any chemicals Emails from happy buyers: I have been growing from cuttings for about 8 years now. Yours are almost too easy. Thanks again 40+ days almost every single cutting has rooted at room temp, very healthy You will receive: 20 cuttings 6-7″ long cuttings from 100% organic Hardy Polar Arctic Kiwi vines (will produce edible fruit and leaves). These are mostly hardwood (brown bark) and fewer semi-hardwood (green and green-brown bark). Your cutting diameter will be between 3-5 mm and 1.5 pencil diameter.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Where Do Hardy Kiwis Grow? Just about everywhere – from Florida to Massachusetts and from San Diego to Vancouver. The Hardy, or Arctic Kiwi, Actinidia arguta, are very cold tolerant and can withstand temperatures as low as -25 degrees Fahrenheit. Hardy Arctic Kiwi plants need around 150 frost-free days for their fruits to mature and ripen. My recent experiments showed that thinner cuttings can be rooted in a glass with water. I used a water bottle to spray thinnest cuttings 2-3 times per day and I kept the cuttings covered by a clear plastic bag – to create a comfy humid environment. This might be a good idea for you to try. I do not guarantee that you will be successful. Based on my other successful rooting tests – it does not really matter if the cutting diameter is 2x or 1x or 1/4th of the pencil diameter (some expert disagree with me). My goal is to provide a variety of the cutting diameters for my buyers to try, because they all use slightly different techniques. The cuttings will be wrapped in a moist paper. It is a mix of Anna female kiwi plant and Meader male kiwi plants. Please see photos of the female flowers (green, berry-looking) and male flowers (yellow)Will come from entangled branches, and it is hard to figure out which one is male and which one – female. I will try my best, but can’t tell for sure who’s who. Please don’t ask to separate them as males and females. ~~~~~~~~~~~ Easy to Root ~ see my last photos in this ad ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ These plants are great for deck, patio, trellis, shade, privacy fence. Anna Kiwi is one of the most popular berry Kiwis found in the markets today. The fruits are about ¾ inch diameter and light green. Sweet and nutritious bite-sized fruit — high in vitamin C and potassium. Vine requires a sturdy structure such as a fence, pergola, or trellis for support. Delicate white blossoms bloom on lustrous green foliage in late May. Established vines are vigorous and hardy to 25º below zero. Pest- and disease-resistant. Heat-tolerant. Ripens in July through late September. Disease resistant, grow vigorously, create beautifully curved branches and cover from sunlight – for deck, patio, trellis, etc.Nice red stems as shown in the photos. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hardy Kiwi is easy to root. These plants grow fast. Experimentation with cuttings is an excellent therapy. I am one of those who believe that people need plants. People need to see green leaves, and they want to be happy doing simple things and accomplishing what they can every day. In addition, this hobby can be profitable – you can grow seedlings and sell them several months later. We can make this planet a little bit greener, cleaner, and healthier! My favorite method for rooting involves a clear plastic container (Like a shoe box from Lowes or a clear-plastic container for cakes) and live moss from the nearby woods. There is an opinion that live moss has anti-mold properties. Also, it is easy to place layers of moss – like clumps or “shelves” with plenty of humid air in between – and then to place cuttings. It is easier and safer to lift the clumps of moss without damaging fragile young roots – when you inspect the cuttings periodically. Horizontal placement of the cuttings often leads to several roots growing at the cutting ends and in the middle, potentially producing 2-3 plants from one cutting. I keep the box at the room temperature, 5-6 ft away from windows. Last several photos illustrate the moss, and roots growing at one end or both ends, and even in the middle. Some people call this horizontal+live moss method “simplified” aeroponics (Wikipedia: aeroponics is the process of growing plants in an air or mist environment without the use of soil or an aggregate medium). Recently I decided to use very short, 3-3.5″ long, cuttings. My experiments with short fig cuttings were surprisingly successful: those short 3-3.5″ cuttings produced roots at the ends and even in the middle! I did not use any rooting hormone, and based on what I have read, rooting hormone may or may not contribute to the success. When I see approx. 1” long white roots, I gently move the cutting to a “pot” made of a clear plastic water bottle with 3-4 holes on the bottom. Clear plastic allows me to see the growing roots. I use regular potting soil, used coffee grounds and even used leaves of mint after drinking mint tea, offering overall loose soil for the roots to propagate. I can see air gaps in the soil (avocado roots seem to like these cavities), and the roots rapidly growing in this porous light-weight “soil”. Normally I place those plastic bottles with rooted cuttings in larger clear plastic containers like Sterlite 55 – 65″ storage totes. I spray some water on my plants and keep these large containers closed. This creates a nice, warm humid environment, so I do not have to worry about watering my young plants too often. Some people prefer other, direct methods for rooting. They put cuttings 2″ deep in the soil and then place a clear plastic bag on top of the pot with the cuttings. I believe that 2″ deep is not the best. When I use this method – I plant my cuttings deeper, so only 2″ of their tops are above the soil level. One reason is to keep the most of the cutting surface in the moist soil. Another reason – is that I saw roots growing in the middle of the cuttings. I never tried heating pads. I know that some people successfully use the back top portion of refrigerators for heating of their cuttings. However, I found an “opposite” … when I placed cuttings in moist potting soil and left it sitting in the unheated garage (meaning cooler temperature and stable moisture level due to very slow evaporation during rather mild winter in Virginia) – many cuttings produced roots. This is just as another simple idea for those who likes experimenting. I am trying to stay away from what people do with my cuttings. One reason – is that every day I have too many things to do, with little time to keep responding to emails. The second reason is that when rooting does not go well – some buyers tend to blame the seller, and in the past they asked me for their money back, saying that my instructions were wrong, “I followed your instructions and the cuttings did not produce roots!” In April 2020 I ran an “abusive” experiment: I planted 10 or so cuttings in a paper cup with some potting soil and mostly coffee grounds. The cup had a hole in the bottom. I placed the cup in a tray with water, so the coffee soil stayed wet. I put the cup in a plastic container with closed lid – like a mini-green house to provide constant temperature and humidity. Then I removed the bundle from the cup and took picture of numerous very nicely developed roots. Please see my recent photos. As you may know, thin semi-hardwood cuttings require more misting or humidity. Industrial greenhouses mist them every 15-30 minutes. I spray green thin cuttings 2 times per day, and I keep them under a clear plastic bag (from a cereal). The bag traps molecules of water and the green twigs and especially green leaves enjoy this “humidity”. Without the frequent misting (like in industrial greenhouses) or a bag over the twigs – the young leaves will wilt, dry and die in the open air. Some people put thin twigs in a glass of water and cover with a similar plastic bag. I tried this method as well. Oftentimes it works. You still need to spray the new leaves using water bottle. I spray indoors all my plants, even old plants. They love it! In summary, different people use different rooting methods – from dump paper in a zip-lock bag placed on top of refrigerator to a sophisticated ultrasonic fog system. I can’t provide advice and/or take any responsibility for what my buyers do with my cuttings or how they perform rooting, grafting, etc. And unfortunately, my name is not Rockefeller, meaning that I can’t refund every unsuccessful rooting experiment. Thank you for your understanding and good luck to you! Please click on the “see other items” button on top right side of the ad. Will be delivered from a clean, no-smoke home inVirginia Plant kindness

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